Process of manufacturing boots and shoes



Jan. 29, 1935. 5. M. RAY

PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING BOO-TS AND SHOES Original Filed OOL'17, 1930mmavxmxmmun WIIIIIIIIIIIIII 2 Patented Jan. 29, 1935' UNITED STATESPATIENT OFFICE .rnocnss or MANUFACTURING Boo'rs AND snons George M. Ray,Newton, Mass.',-assignor, by mesne msignments, to Northern Machine 0 0.,Inc.,

Boston, Mass.. a corporation of Massachusetts Application October-.17,1930, gems... 489,385

' Renewed May 23, 1933 '1 Claims.

shoe placed on a bed lasting machine and the lasting operationcompleted. A considerable degree of skill, effort and care is required,particularly at the toe portion, in pulling, stretching, plaiting andwrinkling the surplus upper material around the toe, holding the same inlasted position by lastingj tacks, usually permanently driven into theshoe, and then subjecting the plaited and wrinkled upper materialsaround the toe to trimming, and pounding by mechanically operatedsmoothing devices to permit the outsole to be laid smoothly thereover.Heretofore it has been attempted to hold these toe plaits by cement butthis method, in accordance with most prior proposals, has requiredconsiderable effort and an abnormally long time to hold the lasted upperwhile the cement hardened or set. Furthermore, such usual"types ofcements have had to be applied and allowed to dry slightly to becometacky before the same would stick and hold properly. A further methodemployed pyroxylin cement, necessitating the use of metal plates,through which tacks were driven. When the cement had set", the tackswere drawn and the plates removed. This method required a'large varietyof sizes and styles of plates to fit different lasts, involvingconsiderable expense-all of which are entirely eliminated by my presentproc- A ess.

Another method used is that -of driving a row of large tacks around thetoe to holdthe lasted portion in position until the cement has set, atwhich time they are pulled out. By my method the expense for the tacksis eliminated, as well as the expense and effort of removing same.

An important feature of my present invention, beside obviating thedifiiculties above noted, saves all delay and time heretofore requiredwhen cement is used to hold the toe, and furthermore, effects animmediate smoothing and practically an ironing operation on the plaitedlayers of the upper materials at the toe portion of a shoe. Thus mypresent process eliminates the necessity for pounding, beating or likeoperations and consequent repeated handling of the shoe.

Furthermore, all the toe tacks in ashoe of this type are eliminated, andhence I am enabled present invention is an improved processto produce atackless shoe structure of the McKay, Littleway, or the like, type,eliminating the tacks along the forepart formerly required.

In carrying out my invention, I have discovered that by the use of a hotadhesive applied to the toeportion of the shoe, I can secure a veryquick-acting means to hold the upper and insole together, and onewherein the softening and beneficial effect of the heat also acts on theupper materials at the toe portion to produce a holding, smoothing, andpractically hot ironing action.

This can be accomplished by the single operation of applying the hotadhesive to the toe and wiping over the same in a bed lasting machine,the hot liquid adhesive and the pressure of the bed lasting machinewipers being sufiicient to effect both the ironing, smoothing andholding action required on the adhesive,while, for example, the operatoris lasting the heel portion of the shoe.

Therefore, no delay is involved, and no separate holding and clampingdevices are required,

as have been employed where lasting the toe por-' tion by cement inprior processes was attempted.

Furthermore, the toe of the shoe thus treated by the heat and adhesive,and the ironing action of the lasting machine wipers'on the upper whilethus hot and permeated by the hot adhesive, effects an automaticsmoothing and ironing action,

thereby eliminating the necessity for subsequent on the last. When usedthis way the assembling and pulling over is done as usual. At thetoelasting a special heating iron is applied to the surface of the adhesivejust before the final wipe of the wipers. By placing the hot iron on theadhesive a few seconds, the adhesive is liquefied and will adhere tothelasted upper when it is wiped in.

Referring to the drawing illustrating a pre ferred embodiment of myinvention,

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a lasted Littleway shoe showing the usualstaples and the pulling-over tacks;

Fig. 2 is a view of the toe portion, particularly in cross-section afterthe pulling-overtacks at the toe have been removed and a hand lastingtool being operated to effect the further fitting, pulling, and plaitingof toe material;

Fig. 3 is a similar fragmentary view of'the toe portion showing-the stepof removing the surplus lining material;

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view in perspective illustrating the firstlasting wiping operations in the bed lasting machine;

Fig. 5 shows one mode of applyingthe hot adhsive to the toe portion of"the upper materials and insole;

Fig. 6 illustrates operation;

Fig. 7 indicates the completed-lasted toe portion of the shoe,illustrating the ironing efiect of the lasting wipers in combinationwith the hot adhesive;

Fig. 8 is a diagrammatic view of a heater containing hot adhesive and apair of brushes for applying same to the toe portion;

Fig. 9 is a bottom view, to small scale, illustrating an, insoleprepared for use in lasting a shoe in accordance with another embodimentof my invention;

Fig. 10 is a perspective view, to small scale, illustrating a heatingiron which may be used with the insole of Fig. 8; and

Fig. 11 is a viewsimilar to Fig. 5, but illustrating that embodiment ofthe invention in which the adhesive cement is first appliedto the borderof the insole as shown in Fig. 8 and 80 allowed to dry, and is latersoftened and made tacky by the application of a xhOt iron such, forexample, as is shown in Fig. 9.

As shown in Fig. 1 the upper materials 2 and the insole 3 have beenassembled on a last 1 (Fig. 2), and the shank and rear portions havebeen lasted in any desired manner, for example by the use of staples 4in accordance with the well known Littleway process. The toe portion hasbeen subjected to the usual pulling-over machine operation in whichtemporary pulling-over tacks are applied, some of such tacks 6 beinglocated at the sides of the forepart and one or more of such 1 tacks 5being located at the forward end of. the toe portion. Thereupon the shoeis fitted to the bed lasting machine jack, the lasting wipers for thetoe end are adjusted, and the operator pulls out the tacks 5 and maythen subject the upper to the further fitting and lasting action of handlasting pinchers 10. These are the usual steps as shown in Fig. 1,isfitted to the bed lastin machine, it is subjected to the toe steamingoperation to soften the box toe materials. The ma portion usuallycomprises the outside or upper material 2', as illustrated, a lining ofcanvas or the like 7, and an intermediate layer 8, constituting the boxtoe or stiffener. After preliminary lasting and wiping actions at thetoe, when the stretch of the upper materials has been taken out and theupper pulled snuglyto the'toeof the last, it is desirable to trim oilthe surplus lining and box .toe materials, opening out the margin of theupper 2 for this purpose, and to cut off the surplus lining andstiffener material with a blade 12 of a hand trimming knife 14, shown inFig. 3. Thereafter, the toe wipers 16 and 1'7 of the bed lasting machineare moved inwardly over the shoe bottom and the toe-portion of the upper2 and remaining shorter portions of the lining 7 and 70 box toe 8 arewiped over, as illustrated in Fig. 4 onto the bottom of the insole.Thereupon the y wipers are backed off and the inside of the up- \per 2,the adjacent part of the insole 3 at the ctoe portion, as well as thelining 7, and box toe 76 8, arextreated with a coating of hot adhesivethe final step in the wiping;

and frequently, before the partially lasted shoe,

the softening and heating action, while the other is being used,conveniently an electrical heating unit 21is employed to maintain thehot adhesive therein in a molten state and at the desired de- 'gree ofheat and tackiness although other types of heating means may obviouslybe employed. The coating adhesive 22 thus applied is suitable for quickand immediatedrying, and as soon as it has been applied the lastingwipers 16 and 17 are actuated to wipe upper materials over onto theinsole 3, and the hot quick setting adhesive 22, while still hot andunder the pressure of the lasting wipers, efiects a holding and ironingaction, leaving the finished toe as shown at 24 and eliminating thenecessity of subsequent pounding, beating, or the like, operations. I

I believe that my invention of a hot adhesive setting quickly while hot,and effecting a.softening and ironing action on the upper 2 from heatapplied on the reverse side, and hence without danger of marring thefinish of the upper materials. is a distinct novelty and I wish to claimthe same and the operation thereof herein broadly. In accordance withanother procedure within the scope of my invention, I may provide theborderof the insole, preparatory to lasting, with a coating of adhesiveor cement which is allowed substantially to dry prior to assemblage ofthe insole and upper upon the last. Such an insole 2' (Fig. 9) with itsborder of cement 22'- is then assembled with the upper on a last inusual manner and the upper is pulled over and held in position bytemporary pulling-over tacks. The last is then mounted in a bed lastingmachine and after removing the pulling-over tacks (at least those at theextreme toe of the shoe) the wipers are actuated to wipe the margin ofthe upper smoothly about the toe of the last and inwardly inpleats overthe insole. The 'wipers are now retracted and the upper is opened outand the at this stage in-the operation.

A hot iron 23 which may be of any shape or type (Fig. 10) and which mayfor convenience in handling be furnished with a handle 24, is nowbrought into heat transferring relation to the border 22' of cement onthe insole so as to make the cement tacky or even liquid, depending uponthe type of cement employed. Preferably this cement is of the kind abovereferred to, adapted to harden and set very quickly upon cooling. As

soon as the cement has been softened sufficiently, the iron is removedand the wipers are advanced inwardly to their final position, thuswiping the margin of the upper inwardly over the bottom of the insoleand into contact with the border of sticky adhesive 22*. The unheatedwipers are maintained in their advanced position until the adhesive hasset sufiiciently to retain the upper in lasted position, the employmentof cold or unheatedwipers in combination with the quick settingthermoplastic cement greatly facilitating and speeding up the operation.The wipers are now removed and the shoe may be completed in ac cordancewith any usual operation, it being noted that prior to the end lastingjust described, the

side lasting may be performed in any usual mang ner, for example, by theuse of staples, tacks or other effective means.

After the completion ofthe lasting action, the

toe portion 24 is usually sumciently smooth and ironed out to eliminatethe subsequent handling and beating or pounding operation, although ofcourse the upper could be subjected to same if desired. The outsole isthen'applied and McKay stitched or otherwise fastened, completing thepermanent union of the insole and outsole, and the shoe is thereuponfinished in the usual manner.

I claim:

1. In the manufacture of boots and shoes the process of securing theupper to the insole which includes the following steps, assembling theupper with the insole upon a last, pulling over the upper at the toeportion, subjecting that portion of the upper to the operation ofunheated lasting wipers, withdrawing such wipers, softening the wiped-inupper material by the application of heat to its inner surface, andagain advancing the wipers to iron the softened material into contactwith the insole.

2. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, the process of securing theupper and lining to the insole which includes the following steps,assembling the upper and lining with the insole upon a last, pullingover the upper and lining at the toe portion, trimming that portion ofthe lining, subjecting the toe portion of the upper materials to theoperation of unheated lasting wipers to wipe the margin of such materialinwardly over the insole, withdrawing the wipers, applying hot adhesiveto the inner surface of the marginal material of the upper, the adhesivebeing at such temperature as to soften and render more tractable saidmarginal material, advancing the wipers over said marginal materialwhereby to iron down the softened material, and holding the wipers inadvanced work-engaging position until the adhesive has cooledsufficiently to set.

3. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, the process of securing theupper and lining to the insole which includes the following steps,applying to the margin of the insole around the toe an adhesive which isrendered soft and sticky by heat, but which sets hard very quickly whencooled below a predetermined temperature, assembling the upper andlining with the insole upon a last, pulling over the upper and lining atthe toe portion, trimming that portion of the lining, wiping in themargin of the upper materials over the edge of the insole by the use ofunheated wipers in a bed lasting machine, retracting the wipers,applying heat directly to the adhesive on the margin of the insole byintroducing a heated member between the wiped-in upper material and theinsole, thereby to liquefy the adhesive and soften the upper materials,and again advancing the wipers to iron the softened marginal material ofthe upper down into contact with the adhesive on the insole, and holdingthe unheated wipers in advanced position to cool the adhesive whilemaintaining the wiped-in upper material in contact therewith.

4. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, the process of securing theupper to the insole which includes the following steps,--applying to theborder of the insole an adhesive which is rendered soft and sticky byheat, but which sets and becomes tenaciously adhesive very quickly whencooled below a predetermined temperature, permitting said adhesive toset, assembling the upper and insole upon a last, pulling over theupper, mounting the last in a bed lasting machine, removing a of timesufficiently long to cause said adhesive to become sticky, ceasing toapply heat, and

thereafter pressing the margin of the upper material into contactwiththe adhesive border of the insole and maintaining the pressure until theadhesive has substantially set.

5. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, the process of securing theupper to the insole which includes the following steps,-preparing aninsole by applying to the border of the latter an adhesive which isrendered soft and sticky by heat, but which sets and becomes tenaciouslyadhesive very quickly when cooled below a predetermined temperature,permitting said adhesive substantially to set, assembling the upper andinsole upon a last, pulling over the. upper and securing it by temporarytacks, wiping in the margin of the upper material over the edge of theinsole by the use of unheated wipers in a bed lasting machine afterhaving removed a portion at least of the pulling-over tacks, retractingthe wipers suiliciently to permit the wiped-in marginal material to beturned back to expose the coated border of the insole, turning suchmarginal material back, causing the adhesive along the border of theinsole to become soft and sticky by the application of heat thereto, andlaying the turned back marginal material down again and holding it inlasted position upon the adhesively coated border of the insole untilthe adhesive has set sufficiently to unite the upper to the insole.

6. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, the process of securing theupper and lining to the insole which includes the following steps,pre-

paring the insole by applying to the border thereof an adhesive which isrendered soft and sticky by heat, but which sets and becomes tenaciouslyadhesive when cooled below a predetermined temperature, assembling theupper and insole upon a last, pulling over the upper and securing it bytemporary pulling-over tacks, mounting the last in a bed lastingmachinehaving unheated wipers,

removing a portion at least of the pulling-over tacks, wiping in themargin of the upper material over the edge of the insole by the use ofsaid wipers, retracting the wipers and opening out the marginal portionof the upper material, trimming away superfluous upper material,applying a hot iron to the cement coated border of the insole to softenthe cement and make it tacky. then removing the iron and advancing thewipers to press the margin of the upper into flrm contact with thestickyborder of the insole and retaining the wipers in said advancedposition until the cement has set suiilciently to secure the upper inlasted position.

GEORGE M. RAY.

'7, The improved process of manufacturing I boots and-shoes, whichconsists in preparing an

